Taxi! Taxi! Taxi!

There’s something to be said for being up at this hour, aside from studying in Norlin all night. Havana is quiet, uncharacteristic of its daytime self, as though it’s gearing up for the day ahead. It’s that hour before the sun is fully up, where its not pitch black out, so you have that soft glow coming through the shutter windows. It’s been an incredible few days, so while I wait for the sun, I’m reading The Old Man and the Sea, sipping on some Cuban coffee (as delicious as they warned), and practicing my Cuban Spanish with the servers and bartenders in the lobby of Hotel Plaza. This place is special. Cuba has taken all of my expectations, shattered them, and transformed them into the more extreme versions of themselves. Let me explain. I came here expecting to learn how to salsa dance, but instead I have salsa danced every night since I arrived and will only agree to go out if I’m promised the chance to dance some more. I expected the coffee to be better than Starbucks and the cigars to be easily-accessible, but the coffee is rich and delicious and the cigars hang out of pretty much everyone’s mouths, man, woman, or (reasonably aged) child, and can be found for sale on every street corner. I expected Cuba to be beautiful and damaged, but in reality it is beautifully damaged, preserved with what I presume to be tobacco ash, and has created opportunity out of its damage; as business students, we have a lot to learn from this place.

Over the past few days, I have explored the University of Havana, where my ancestors attended, I’ve visited an antique auto restoration shop and asked plenty of questions to its owner. Believe it or not, running a business anywhere in the world holds its own sets of risks and rewards, developing countries included. Actually, developing countries especially. I’ve ridden around in those classic cars Cuba is famous for, smoked plenty of cigars, played chess and fútbol with little kids from an after school program, and learned how to properly dance salsa. I’m exhausted, but I’m in a land famous for its coffee, so I expect to be just fine for the remainder of the trip. After listening to the owner of the auto restoration ship, it is even harder to imagine life here permanently. As a business owner, he has so many expenses to cover with very little means to do so. Each car he purchases costs him around $12,000, and if it weren’t for his family and friends in the United States to help him out, he would not be able to invest in the cars and turn them into profit, nor would he be able to provide jobs for his drivers and his mechanics. It is commonly known that in business, it takes money to make money, and in a country under so much control like Cuba, it is clear just how true this statement can be. With the recent lift of the embargo, one can only hope for less restrictions by the government and in turn, more opportunity for people like Nostalgicar’s owners.

The rest of my night was spent salsa dancing, and of course, visiting new city Havana with some friends. It was too far to walk, so we took taxis, rolled the windows down, and enjoyed the sweet Cuban air. At the end of the night, when the majority of the group was ready to go back, the last of us who had some energy left walked down to the Malecon to finish the night they way we’re told you’re supposed to in Havana. It was one of those nights I won't soon forget.

Follow the Salsa

It’s May 14, 2017, I’m writing from the bus from Viñales to Havana. Viñales has treated me well. It’s a beautiful mountain town, much different than my Boulder mountain town, rich with life, food, culture, alcohol, and dancing. On the second night, my friend Jorge and I split off from the group and found a salsa bar a few blocks from where we were staying. I knew nothing, but Jorge grabbed my hand and told me to follow his lead, and we ended up on the dance floor well past two in the morning. This pretty much set the tone for the trip, and every night after that we looked for Salsa bars, no matter which city we were in. 

So after a long day of exploring yesterday, our group settled in for dinner and siestas at our casitas before going out for the night. A few of us started at the bars and eventually made our way to a party in the entrance of a cave in the middle of a forest. Jorge and I jumped immediately in as soon as we got to the cave. Absolutely, we were the life of the party. With enough liquid courage flowing through everyone's veins, the rest of the group joined us and tried copying what we were doing, taking my hand, spinning me around, and holding tightly onto my hips. We danced to salsa, reaggaton, merengue, and some random American music that was surely played just for us gringos. When we had had enough a bunch of us grabbed an old car (taxi) to bring us back home.

It was the perfect end to an incredible couple of days in Viñales. Yesterday, as exhausted as we were from traveling, we went on a hike to a tobacco farm where we watched fresh cigars being rolled. It’s early into our trip, but I can already tell how large of a roll tobacco has on Cuba. In the US, we warn against using it, we take health classes from elementary school all the way through high school to examine the effects of tobacco on the body, and we have created campaigns strategically produced to guilt us out of using the substance. Many states have even increased the price of tobacco to discourage its use. But in Cuba, stuck generations behind us, it is obvious that without tobacco, their economy would fail. Truthfully, after seeing how gracefully the man rolled the cigar, I wouldn’t want Cuba to change that part of their culture. In fact, I think the cigar culture adds a certain level of toughness to the people here. The effects of smoking as we know it make them look distressed and weathered, matching Cuba’s history anyway. Only Cubans could pull off this look.

Tired from coming off of exam season, traveling the day before, and then hiking all morning (you can already see we’re not as tough as native Cubans), we stopped on our way back for some coco locos, and I had some of the best coconut I’ve ever had. We gave ourselves a chance to catch our breath and take in a mountain town very different from the one we’re used to. I’m excited to see Havana and however this grand adventure continues. For now, I’m going to catch up on some sleep I definitely did not get last night so I can prepare myself for the day and for more dancing tonight. Lesson learned: when your Mexican friend takes your hand and says, "come on, I'm taking you dancing," it'll be nothing like dancing in the US and you're guaranteed a good time. Follow him.

Dos Besos No Están Suficiente

Lumi, Antonio, Judit, Merche, Tito Fernan, Diego, Oscar, Juan, Nati, Claudia, y Raul,

Gracias por todos. Gracias por enseñarme a cocinar. Gracias por el bizcocho, bacalao, flan, la ensalada, paella, arroz con leche, y tarta helada-- gracias por todos de mis recetas nuevas. No puedo esperar a cocinar las recetas para mi familia a casa en los Estados Unidos. Gracias por acogerme, por la conversación, las risas, y las sonrisas. Gracias, sobre todo, por hacerme sentir como parte de la familia. Ahora tengo recuerdos que guardaré siempre y pensaré con mucho cariño. Os prometo que voy a venir otra vez. Si alguna vez visitáis los Estados Unidos, ¡tenéis casas allí conmigo! Sois me otra familia, mi familia Española. Es increíble que tener una familia a través del mundo, y cuando vuelva a España el proximo vez, va a ser con la mentalidad que vuelva a casa. Raul, el proximo vez juntos, vamos a jugar mas cartas y voy a ganar de "Rápido." Si me necesitas, me echas de menos tu otra hermana, o solo necesitas consejo, entonces me llamas. No me importe qual hora en España o en los Estados. Siempre estoy aquí, siempre soy tu hermana. Claudia, eres mi hermana. Estas seis semanas fueron unas de mis favoritas en mi vida. Esto no es un "adios," pero "hasta nuestra próxima aventura." No puedo esperar a ver el mundo contigo. Os quiero con todo mi corazón y más.

A Mis Amigos,
Espero una visita a Colorado así puedo enseñaros mi otra lugar favorita en este mundo. Ya os echo de menos y nuestras momentos juntos, especialmente el día en San Agustín de Guadalix. Hasta el proximo vez, cuando podemos saltar de acantilados, cantos rodados, y cascadas otra vez. Sí, sois mis amigos, pero sois mi familia también.

Con Mucho, Mucho Cariño, Muchos Besos, y la Prometa de Volver,
Emily Rose Carpey

this is my family.

disfruta la momenta

"drink heavily with locals whenever possible" -Anthony Bourdain

my other sister, Laura

my two sisters, Claudia and Sara

mi hermana Sara y tia Judit

great times, better company

cheers :)

hermanito Raul

Raul and I in Plaza Mayor

disfruté el día contigo

do it while we're young

San Agustín de Guadalix

"lovely"

almuerzo con la familia

friends-- no, family

Lumi cooking an incredible Paella

kicking Raul's ass in cards

my little brother, Raul

cooking with Raul and Lumi

prepping the Bacalao

another brother, Raul Palomo

so much love for someone who I've only known for a couple weeks. 

mi mama y yo juntas. ya se echo de menos muchísimo 

Homemade

I was the first one to wake up this morning, aside from Claudia's abuela, Lumi, so I grabbed myself a cup of coffee and sat outside to enjoy the first few moments of the day before everyone started to get up. We've spent the last couple of days at the grandparents' home with limited cell service, but plenty to keep us occupied

You could almost call it old-fashioned here. There's no cell service, no strip malls or shops closer than ten minutes away, and nothing that resembles Ridge Pike or even Calle Arenal to speak of. There's just a pool, a wooden swing set, a hammock, and a couple decks of Spanish playing cards. All day yesterday, Lumi, Claudia, Raul, and I cooked and baked the families' favorite recipes. I'm coming home with copies of them (in both Spanish and English), two flaneras, two bags of Spanish coffee beans and other plenty of other ingredients. In a manner I'm all-too familiar with, there has never been a shortage of food or conversation. Lumi is the sweetest, funniest lady. She's so welcoming and has more love for her family, and her family's friends than any Jewish mother I've ever known.

Since none of the aunts, uncles, or grandparents speak English, we've been sharing stories and recipes in Spanish. With a semi-limited vocabulary, I found myself having to leave out parts of certain stories, but trust me, they get the gist of the Carpey family. Lumi, Antonio, Judit, and Merche want to meet Laura and Estuart on our next visit to Spain and cook for them, too. They are all familiar with Benji and how he ended up in Japan, his art, and his haircut. They love how similar I look to Julia and that I still call her Sissie; their family also has those little made-up names for each other from when the kids were little. We can't wait to FaceTime from Colorado and Philly when I make Lumi's recipes for my friends and family. We only wish I had more time to spend together, but I suppose that's what next time is for.

My second cup of coffee is empty now, and the family is starting to get up. I think I'll go enjoy my morning with them, play more cards with Raul, and cook some Paella, Arroz con Leche, and Bizcocho with Lumi before heading home. Enjoy the photos below!

Tia Judit and Antonio

I taught Raul how to play spit (or "rápido," as he calls it)

I got used to this pretty quickly: a hammock, El Principito (The Little Prince), and the dogs hanging out near by

this is the view from Lumi's kitchen sink, overlooking the brick oven and the gardens to the left, with the rest of the property to the right

cooking with Lumi and Raul

When Life Hands you an Expired Passport...

After one month of constant motion, I was ready to get from Philly to Madrid and no longer be responsible for anything or anyone but myself. Don't get me wrong, being at home with my parents and Claudia before I leave for college was incredible; I took her downtown to my favorite parts of the city, spent impossible amounts of calories at WaWa, saw friends I haven't seen probably since the exchange back in January, and explored my home city like a tourist. But when all is said and done, the stress of creating this grand adventure for both her and me became exhausting physically, mentally, emotionally, and financially not just for me but for my family, too. So when it was time to turn around and start the next leg of the trip, let's just say that I was looking forward to a few quiet hours and nothing to do on an airplane. 

We arrived at the airport on Monday (July 11) with bags in hand, Claudia in tow, passport ready for its next stamp. But as it turns out, my passport, which expires at the end of August, was invalid according to European regulations which require American passports to be good for three months past the last date of your trip. AKA, two months too short for me to have been able to fly on Monday. Go figure. We put Claudia on a plane, and Mommy and Daddy and I went home in a surreal moment of "where are the cameras, who's playing this sick joke?"

Mommy's and my day started at 6:15 a.m., and we were in line at the passport agency by 7:30 to renew my passport and have me on a 6:45 p.m. flight to Madrid. If this hasn't tested my cortisol levels, I don't want to think about what it would take to do that. But I must say, as shitty and stressful as all of that was, Mommy and I took advantage of our bonus day together. We grabbed breakfast after taking care of my passport, went home and hung out with the dogs, went back to the city to pick my passport up and had a delicious lunch at Amada before heading back to PHL Int'l Airport. 

I don't always believe "everything happens for a reason," but I do believe in pausing, learning to adjust to whatever change of plans I'm dealing with, and enjoying the simple things, like a few extra hours alone with my two favorite people in the world.

Just Because It's Thursday

It's insane how familiar a place you've only been to once before can be. From the minute I got here I have felt strangely at home. My Spanish family picked me up at the arrivals gate at the Madrid airport, and after an abundance of squeals, hugs, and churros, I reunited with my friends and some drinks, cheering to "Emily for making it through immigration!!"

It's only my second day here, but something tells me that today will just be one of those memories I'll save as a favorite day. Claudia and I woke up around 8:30 (not bad for jet lag!) and had Cola Cao and tomato tostas for breakfast. We spent the day at Pablo's pool where I got to chat in Spanish with the lifeguard about my life and what it's like to live in the city that's home to Rocky. Not until promising my return so we could continue our conversation about Philly slang, (cheesesteak "wit" onions, please, from Jim's, not Pats or Ginos,) Claudia and I came home to have lunch, shower, and take a siesta before shopping with Sara and Laura.

While all of those things were highlights of my day, they aren't reasons why today was so incredible. Tonight we went to have dinner with Claudia's family. Before we got to their house, Claudia "warned" me about her family. She said that they're all crazy, loud, obnoxious, and nosey. She said that her aunts are the craziest; they use any excuse they can come up with to have a celebration. "It's the first warm day of the spring!" or "It's the end of a long work week!" or "Emily's here, let's have a Hawaiian themed party!" or "It's Thursday!! Let's celebrate!!" They celebrate because it's just a THURSDAY! Because why the hell not?!

And sure enough, the front of the house was decorated for a party. Balloons and streamers and "happy birthday" garlands hung from the brick entrance way and Claudia's aunts and grandmother, Judith, Merche, Lumi were dressed in crowns of floral Hawaiian leis. They ran to greet and crown Claudia and me so that the celebration could start. If I could bottle their positivity and bring it home with me, I would.

I spent the night integrating myself into the Vega family; I enjoyed the company of aunts, grandparents, cousins, homemade meals, beautiful gardens, freshly grown sweet tomatoes and peppers, a swing set and a pool the kids have grown up playing in, photo books full of nostalgic stories and memories, kids and uncles wrestling, dogs who understand Spanish ("sientate," not "sit"), and plenty of laughter to brighten my darkest of days. They are probably the most genuine people I've ever met. During dinner, I couldn't help but look out through the beaded curtains hanging down from the door at the sun setting in the background, the stunning red flowers bleeding into the view, and the family dog laying down to catch her breath in front of the outdoor brick oven stove.

There is something to be said for Merche and Judith's positive energy. I'm sure that from Claudia's point of view, it's just the crazy aunts at it again. But from where I'm standing, it's reminder that there is always something to celebrate. So in the meantime, I'm going to take a page from their book, and celebrate that it's Thursday.

Until Next Time, Thank You.

So many faces in and out of my life,
some will last some will just be now-and-then.
Life is a series of hellos and goodbyes
I'm afraid it's time for a goodbye again...

The lyrics from Billy Joel's Say Goodbye to Hollywood have been playing on repeat in my head for the past three days. Every great artist has their sentimental "goodbye," song: The Beatles's Hello Goodbye, In My Life, John Denver's Jet Plane, Closing Time by Semisonic, Five For Fighting's 100 Year's, the list is infinite. You see, the thing about these set of lyrics that makes it so spot-on and poignant, is that it is impossible to know for sure which faces will last, and which will just be "now-and-then." It is 12:02 pm on Sunday, January 31, 2016,  I am sitting in the Madrid airport with a broken heart and tear-stained eyes.

Being a seasoned-traveler, I feel like I am supposed to be accustomed to falling in love with a city, and then having to leave it. The happiest place in the world is, in my humble opinion, the arrivals gate at any airport. The arrivals gate stands for the start of an adventure, the most dramatic "hello," the place for beginnings, where "goodbyes" are on no one's mind. But as happy as I was to hear the familiar American accent and be in the arms of the ones I love after landing in Philadelphia, nothing could take away the melancholy feeling I have already started to experience (and will be putting my family through) for the next few days. All of these fragments of memories are flooding my mind, and I'm too terrified of forgetting any of them, so I'll write them down as fast as I can, wipe the tears away from my eyes, and remember that these faces, and these memories, will last.  Here we go:

I've spent two and a half weeks:
speaking and translating
stumbling over words
improving my Spanish
learning Spanish slang and Spanish curse words
meeting awesome people
finding and beholding the most breathtaking views
revisiting places I've already seen
seeing them completely differently
drinking cappuccino and cafe con leche at least once a day
goofing around in madrid
climbing the mountainous streets of Toledo
flirting with Spanish cities...and Spanish boys
looking up to see the unbelievably detailed architecture of Madrid's buildings
daydreaming of dramatic and unrealistic adventures in Spain
squealing and laughing till my abs hurt and considering that my workout for the day
shoving chocolate y churros in my face in my favorite Chocolatería, San Ginés
learning how to do a head stand in a gym class in Alcobendas
belting out lyrics to every song on my phone through the Alhambra with my best friends
learning how to dance Bachata and Reaggaton in Disco Tecas
walking down cobblestone streets
basking in the light that seeps in to the Alhambra
eating incredibly cheap tapas in Granada
picking oranges off trees in Córdoba
taking siestas everyday, because why not?
pretending to be a local (even after they figured out I'm not)
eating jamón y queso sandwiches for every lunch
eating jamón iberico with every meal
finding hidden gems in very touristy cities
leaving my fishbowl, and adapting a new one
becoming a native in a foreign (but familiar) place
seizing every day and every moment
searching through tiendas
wandering through Toledo
succumbing to wanderlust
learning a little history of the country
seeing old friends from years back
taking selfies with random Spaniards on the streets
taking selfies with my best friends
taking selfies with Lex and Spanish police
teaching flamboyant Spanish moms the hoorah
dancing bachata (and hoorah) with Spanish parents all night
taking at least 10 seconds to be present at least once a day
talking to groups of kids about all things America (with a focus on iPhones)
acting like a celebrity in Severa Ochoa
being the JEFA!
taking pictures
putting my phone down to enjoy the moment and the view
taking more pictures
eating, eating, and eating some more because "¡estoy llena!" is not a part of the Spanish vocabulary
becoming best friends with people I've known my whole life
becoming "hermanos" with people I met a few months ago
becoming a member of 19 families

To my hermanos, my families, and my new friends from around the world,
Thank you for taking me in, showing me your world, and giving me the opportunity of a lifetime. Thank you for being my brother in Spain, my sister, my blonde best friend, my Stella Magnolia, Lex, and Klon Krew, my chungas and malotas, and my girls who I explored Córdoba with at night (and to those malotes/canis, we all need them in our lives), my best friend who I'm stealing from my chica, thank you for teaching me how to dance like a Spaniard. You all know who you are among that long list. Os quiero con todo de mi corazón.

To Spain,
You have my heart forever, you are my other home in this world. For better or worse, you and I will always be in a long distance relationship. They say that absence makes the heart grow fonder, and every time we see each other, I know this to be true. Eres mi amor, por vida.

To Mommy and Daddy,
Thank you for giving me this experience, for encouraging me to get up, get out, and explore uncharted waters. Thank you for giving me the world.

Until next time, thank you for endless adventures.

Madrid, outside the Royal Palace

selfies with strangers

a selfie with Lex and a Spanish Police Officer, as mentioned above

km 0 is the exact center of Spain, found in Puerta del Sol in Madrid

my chicas: sophie, Paola, Paula, Claudia, Carmen, Lex, Claudia, Sara and Me <3 comment-3--="" nbsp="">

Jorge and I, a friend I met years ago and got to spend time with again for the past two weeks:)

Eric and I with some Spanish friends, including Omar, another friend from another year who I got to see again this time in Alcobendas!

Stella Magnolia, Lex, and Klon...pinkie promises 

the cutest couple and the best friends an American girl could have

my new best friend, Laura (she's mine, Sara, sorry not sorry)

before the adventure even began, leaving for the airport...it feels like you wait and wait for it to start, and it's over before you blink your eyes

tapas...

...paella tapas...

...and even more tapas

Ivan and I
I consider Ivan like a brother from around the world; he was on the exchange last year and stayed with our family friends, so by default, when he became a part of their family, he became mine too.

the making of churros at San Gins

a vintage book shop that sold the coolest post cards, paintings, polaroids, books, stamps, you get the idea

More Madrid

Chocolate y Churros at San Ginés

goofing around in Plaza Mayor, Madrid

Madrid, and Alcobendas specifically, is very popular for graffiti. This is one of our friends' favorite basketball court, covered wall-to-wall in beautiful graffiti

Charlie's Angles?

Claudia and me, one of my sisters

Marcos and me at the basketball courts

just hanging out

one of my favorite photos ever