Monday, May 29, 2017

Taxi! Taxi! Taxi!

There’s something to be said for being up at this hour, aside from studying in Norlin all night. Havana is quiet, uncharacteristic of its daytime self, as though it’s gearing up for the day ahead. It’s that hour before the sun is fully up, where its not pitch black out, so you have that soft glow coming through the shutter windows. It’s been an incredible few days, so while I wait for the sun, I’m reading The Old Man and the Sea, sipping on some Cuban coffee (as delicious as they warned), and practicing my Cuban Spanish with the servers and bartenders in the lobby of Hotel Plaza. This place is special. Cuba has taken all of my expectations, shattered them, and transformed them into the more extreme versions of themselves. Let me explain. I came here expecting to learn how to salsa dance, but instead I have salsa danced every night since I arrived and will only agree to go out if I’m promised the chance to dance some more. I expected the coffee to be better than Starbucks and the cigars to be easily-accessible, but the coffee is rich and delicious and the cigars hang out of pretty much everyone’s mouths, man, woman, or (reasonably aged) child, and can be found for sale on every street corner. I expected Cuba to be beautiful and damaged, but in reality it is beautifully damaged, preserved with what I presume to be tobacco ash, and has created opportunity out of its damage; as business students, we have a lot to learn from this place.
Over the past few days, I have explored the University of Havana, where my ancestors attended, I’ve visited an antique auto restoration shop and asked plenty of questions to its owner. Believe it or not, running a business anywhere in the world holds its own sets of risks and rewards, developing countries included. Actually, developing countries especially. I’ve ridden around in those classic cars Cuba is famous for, smoked plenty of cigars, played chess and fútbol with little kids from an after school program, and learned how to properly dance salsa. I’m exhausted, but I’m in a land famous for its coffee, so I expect to be just fine for the remainder of the trip. After listening to the owner of the auto restoration ship, it is even harder to imagine life here permanently. As a business owner, he has so many expenses to cover with very little means to do so. Each car he purchases costs him around $12,000, and if it weren’t for his family and friends in the United States to help him out, he would not be able to invest in the cars and turn them into profit, nor would he be able to provide jobs for his drivers and his mechanics. It is commonly known that in business, it takes money to make money, and in a country under so much control like Cuba, it is clear just how true this statement can be. With the recent lift of the embargo, one can only hope for less restrictions by the government and in turn, more opportunity for people like Nostalgicar’s owners.
The rest of my night was spent salsa dancing, and of course, visiting new city Havana with some friends. It was too far to walk, so we took taxis, rolled the windows down, and enjoyed the sweet Cuban air. At the end of the night, when the majority of the group was ready to go back, the last of us who had some energy left walked down to the Malecon to finish the night they way we’re told you’re supposed to in Havana. It was one of those nights I won't soon forget.

Follow the Salsa

It’s May 14, 2017, I’m writing from the bus from Viñales to Havana. Viñales has treated me well. It’s a beautiful mountain town, much different than my Boulder mountain town, rich with life, food, culture, alcohol, and dancing. On the second night, my friend Jorge and I split off from the group and found a salsa bar a few blocks from where we were staying. I knew nothing, but Jorge grabbed my hand and told me to follow his lead, and we ended up on the dance floor well past two in the morning. This pretty much set the tone for the trip, and every night after that we looked for Salsa bars, no matter which city we were in. 
So after a long day of exploring yesterday, our group settled in for dinner and siestas at our casitas before going out for the night. A few of us started at the bars and eventually made our way to a party in the entrance of a cave in the middle of a forest. Jorge and I jumped immediately in as soon as we got to the cave. Absolutely, we were the life of the party. With enough liquid courage flowing through everyone's veins, the rest of the group joined us and tried copying what we were doing, taking my hand, spinning me around, and holding tightly onto my hips. We danced to salsa, reaggaton, merengue, and some random American music that was surely played just for us gringos. When we had had enough a bunch of us grabbed an old car (taxi) to bring us back home.
It was the perfect end to an incredible couple of days in Viñales. Yesterday, as exhausted as we were from traveling, we went on a hike to a tobacco farm where we watched fresh cigars being rolled. It’s early into our trip, but I can already tell how large of a roll tobacco has on Cuba. In the US, we warn against using it, we take health classes from elementary school all the way through high school to examine the effects of tobacco on the body, and we have created campaigns strategically produced to guilt us out of using the substance. Many states have even increased the price of tobacco to discourage its use. But in Cuba, stuck generations behind us, it is obvious that without tobacco, their economy would fail. Truthfully, after seeing how gracefully the man rolled the cigar, I wouldn’t want Cuba to change that part of their culture. In fact, I think the cigar culture adds a certain level of toughness to the people here. The effects of smoking as we know it make them look distressed and weathered, matching Cuba’s history anyway. Only Cubans could pull off this look.
Tired from coming off of exam season, traveling the day before, and then hiking all morning (you can already see we’re not as tough as native Cubans), we stopped on our way back for some coco locos, and I had some of the best coconut I’ve ever had. We gave ourselves a chance to catch our breath and take in a mountain town very different from the one we’re used to. I’m excited to see Havana and however this grand adventure continues. For now, I’m going to catch up on some sleep I definitely did not get last night so I can prepare myself for the day and for more dancing tonight. Lesson learned: when your Mexican friend takes your hand and says, "come on, I'm taking you dancing," it'll be nothing like dancing in the US and you're guaranteed a good time. Follow him.